Wednesday, June 5, 2013

Burda 06-2013, #119, and what I hope is the seam method of pattern alteration

I have a new blouse!











It's a pretty simple one. The point of making it was to experiment with fitting. I would clearly benefit from a full bust adjustment -- many of my tops are either too loose at the shoulders or too tight through the bust -- but I've muddled along without knowing how to do one for a long time.

I don't think the method I used is a common one, but I'm pretty happy with how it came out. It's the seam method from the book Fitting and Pattern Alteration, recommended by Susan Khalje in the Craftsy course I'm working my way through. At the risk of overreaching here as a brand-new blogger, I'm going to try to summarize it, only because I didn't find much about this method online. So just skip this part if you want, obviously.

If I understand the basics of this method correctly (and that's a huge IF; this was not at all easy for me to figure out so please point me toward better information if you can!), the idea is to make your alterations right at the seamline to minimize distortion while at the same time preserving the length of the seamline, so that you don't have to make changes in other pieces that connect to the altered piece. To make this happen, you cut carefully just along the inside of the seamline on your pattern piece, choose points at which to clip "hinges" through the seam allowance just to the outside of the seamline so you can overlap and/or spread as you need to, and then redraw dart lines etc.

Below is what I ended up with. Toward the top of the photo, you can just see an overlapped piece of seam allowance where I made one of the hinges. (The slash through the middle of the dart does not interfere with the integrity of the seamline since that extra fabric will be gone once you sew the dart.)





I give this method bonus points because, since you're working with the seamline, not the cutting line, you don't have to add a seam allowance when you trace patterns from magazines like Burda or Manequim. Though you do have to draw in the seamlines if they're not on your pattern already.

Okay, enough about that. This pattern is straightforward if you've made this type of shirt before. The only change I made aside from the FBA was to place the patch pockets a bit higher, so they didn't outline my "apexes."



This fabric is a loosely woven cotton that Mood offered in an online sale a while back. It is extremely blue. As I was making the blouse, I left it hanging off the back of a chair before I got the collar and sleeves on, and my husband pointed out that it looked almost exactly like a WalMart greeter's vest. So true! It made me laugh, but now I'll always think of that when I wear it.





The back could use some work, or maybe it's just too snug around my hips? Will keep working on how to make my clothes fit . . .



The pattern review is here.













A good dinner for a hot day:
Shred some cold roasted chicken, toss with lots of cilantro torn into big pieces, add a big handful of sliced almonds you've toasted in a dry skillet. Dress with olive oil, lemon juice, and coarse salt. Eat with good bread and wine, preferably outside. Adapted from Forever Summer, by Nigella Lawson, but she uses parsley instead of cilantro.

Sunday, June 2, 2013

Getting started

For years my mild obsession with sewing has taken the form of lurking around other people's sewing blogs, fabric shopping at every possible opportunity, poring over pattern magazines and new pattern collections, and, oh yeah, occasionally actually sewing something. In the hope that documenting what I do will remind me that what I want to do is sew more and sew better, I am jumping on this bandwagon right now.

I'll be keeping it simple until I get the hang of this, so please bear with me. Speaking of simple, one of my most frequently used patterns is top D from the ancient Simplicity 5970.



Want to see some more of those?


These take just a bit of fabric and are easy to throw on in hot, humid New England summers.

But that is not all I aspire to, oh no. Sometimes my experiments have worked out nicely, but more often, and seemingly in direct relation to how much work I've put in, I have ended up with a piece of clothing that I'm just not going to wear. This will be a record of my attempt to turn that around. Stay tuned for a look at some of my past and future efforts.

Thanks for reading!





Nature notes:

Two painted turtles were crisscrossing the grass in front of the house yesterday, looking for a place to lay their eggs.

This is a photo from last year; didn't get one yesterday.




I hope our eastern phoebe finds a mate soon, because he is screeching from dawn to dusk.
(I wanted to insert an audio link to the phoebe's call here; so much to learn . . .)