Tuesday, January 28, 2014

That Manequim top




Some months ago I mentioned that my sewing plans included making up #266 from the May 2013 issue of the Brazilian magazine Manequim. I finally did it. The top is a drapy pullover V-neck with lots of details that I liked, and some that I wasn't so crazy about: my version has no epaulets with "spikes."

























The muslin I made last summer was not promising. (Rant appears here, in case you are interested.) Basically, the muslin revealed my misunderstanding of how Manequim works. I had assumed that, as in Burda, the clothes shown in the photos were actually sewn from the included patterns. Instead, Manequim's photos feature ready-to-wear clothes (clearly labeled with manufacturer and price, by the way), and patterns have then been drafted that are more or less similar to the RTW. In this case, it was less similar . . . though Melissa of Fehr Trade, who has much more experience with Manequim than I do, seems not to have had this issue, so I may have just been unlucky. The main problem was that the V-neck was quite a bit smaller than in the original:








Once I got over my surprise, this was an easy fix. I recut the pattern pieces so that the neckline was a little wider and considerably deeper. I also tapered the side seams in, from nothing at the underarm to a total of 4 inches at the hem, so I can wear it out sometimes, as opposed to tucked in, without looking like I'm swimming in it.





It's worth noting that this is a size 40, two full sizes down from what my measurements call for according to Manequim (not the same as Burda sizes). Like many Manequim patterns, this one comes in only one size. Looking at the photo below, I think it's too wide through my shoulders even so. I know this top is meant to be a loose-fitting style, but it would be beyond loose on someone who normally wears a 40.




This top needs a very drapey fabric. The version in the magazine was made from microfiber, and my first thought was to use silk, as I so often do. In the end, though, I thought it was a good use for a length of peachskin I had picked up at a Pattern Review swap several months ago. Maybe everyone else knows what peachskin is? I didn't. It's a drapey polyester fabric with a brushed finish that makes it feel somewhat like suede. I generally prefer sewing with natural fibers, but this was a pleasure to sew with and feels good.

Pattern review is here.



A note for TV watchers:
My husband and I obsessively watched the first season of a French TV series recently. The Returned (Les Revenants, in the original) involves dead people who start showing up, alive and well, in a beautiful alpine town . . . but it's not just another zombie show. The series has subtitles, lots of interconnected characters, and a delightfully eerie, creepy feel that reminds me a little of Twin Peaks.

8 comments:

  1. Really nice job, Patricia, and I think the dropped shoulders are in line with the design, so it looks very modern. I've never heard of that magazine, so I'll have to check it out. There are a number of Burda-like magazines in France; I wish we had mags like that in the US.

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    1. Thanks, Julie. My subscriptions to Manequim and Burda are certainly not cost-effective, but the little thrill I get when I find them in the mailbox each month and get to browse through makes them worth it for me. If we manage to meet up in Boston one of these days, I'll bring a couple of the Manequim down so you can see what you think.

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  2. Oh, I did not know that about Manequim, how interesting! Your top turned out just beautiful though, so elegant.

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    1. Thank you, Carolyn! I am always glad when you stop by.

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    1. Thank you, Dorothy! I appreciate your comment.

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  4. Yes, the colour shows better here. Love the neckline and the shape and the details. Really brilliant top!

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    1. Thank you, Merche! I like this top, too, and it gave me a chance to try out a pattern from Manequim. I'd like to try a Patrones pattern one of these days—I know you're familiar with that magazine—as I have a few issues sent by my mother-in-law, who lives in Spain. I did make one boxy simple tee from one of the issues, but it hardly counted as a pattern.

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